My friend David suggested I put day numbers on my posts but I keep forgetting both to do it and which day it is. The only thing that’s certain is I left Osaka on a Friday. So if today is indeed Sunday, as I strongly suspectit is, then this is day 10 of travelling and day 9 of pilgrimage.
I thought I had got away with camping free for the night but alas a small Japanese man with a face mask on came and collected ¥300 off me this morning. Admittedly I nay have looked like I was trying not to pay by camping under a tree and behind a sort of pergola but I can assure you it was just to get away from the traffic noise.
With temples far apart at the moment, I have some choice over the route I take so although my map showed the coastal route as the main way to get here, I decided to cut inland. The inland route seemed to follow a river so I hoped this meant there wouldn’t be too much climbing. It was a bit of a risk as my belly was empty and if there was a good long climb, there was a strong chance I would hit the wall as I couldn’t expect any food shops until the temple.
As it turned out, I made the right choice and the series of roads I took were all almost completely empty and took me through a shady single-lane road between forest and river and through farming valleys where the farmers were in the fields using manual tools and dressed as they may have been 100 years ago. Riding through the villages, people I passed all smiled and said konnichiwa. Admittedly near the end one farmer tried to take me out at an intersection but he bowed very apologetically and profusely afterward.
It’s a beautiful sunny day today and I’ve got a t-shirt on for the first time. At least one more temple today, maybe more if I get a full head of steam up.