That’s right. By completing the long climb to Unpenji, temple 66, I have entered the Dojo of Nirvana. Of course I could have made it easier for myself by not doing it with empty water bottles and an empty stomach but a pilgrimage is not meant to be easy is it? Unless of course you choose to do it in a bus with 30 of your closest elderly friends but the daily politics between these old people can be bitter and acrimonious.

In any case, I’ve been in the wilderness – not in any religious sense, but sleeping in rest huts the last three nights and probably tonight as well. And in case you’re wondering, I am minging. But it’s the healthy smell of exercise, so that’s okay. I’m hoping the temple incense hides it.

I havent been posting because i havent had access to power and ive been worried about running out of batteries. The iPhone map has proved very handy indeed these last couple of weeks. However, never fear – I’ve been keeping records of my days using ye olden methode of pencile and papyre and I shall type them up in the next few days when I get a chance.

The temples are fairly close together today so my mission is to try and race around to as many as possible and with luck set myself up to finish tomorrow. After that, I’ll make my way back to Osaka, probably staying a night at Kumi’s on the way and then getting back to Richard’s where I will eat all his food and drink all his beer.

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